First Progress Report

(period January 1st 1999 - June 30th 1999)

Overview

The project has started and the partners are engaged in the activities outlined in the workplan of the contract.

In the reference period, the main effort has been devoted to the user requirements collection and  to the selection of the appropriate technologies, not completely identified in the definition phase.

 

One of the most challenging issue of the project, the customisation of a model of garment from the body measurements, required a strong effort because of the need to have a detailed analysis of the relationships between the body and the model in the real industrial process of the supplier.

 

The start up of the project had a delay of about two months due to organisational problems deriving partially from the fact that in a very short time period were concentrated the Christmas holidays, the signature of the contract and the starting of the activities.

The partners suffered also for the delay of the advance payment of the 30% of the total funding of the contract that seriously impacted the start up of the activities by the small enterprises engaged in the project.

 

A more detailed description of the activities:

WP 1.1, coordination

The coordination Committee has been established (see annex  A), and the communication rules and tools (mailing list Ishtar, WEB site http://server1.pisa.enea.it/Ishtar) have been defined (see annex  A); two general meetings have been organised (see annexes  A and B), All the contractors and associated contractors participated in them.

During each meeting (Lisbon and Mestre) the host partners (Neosis and COIN) presented themselves and their company activities and strategies.

The quality assurance plan has been established with a set of reasonable rules and procedures that result well accepted by all the partners (see annex C).

The harmonisation of the activities is pursued through meetings and diffusion of reports that keep all the partners continuously in touch. The coordinator participates in almost all the meetings between partners in order to assure that a common background is shared by all the partners.

 

The WEB site is operating but not completed in all the parts, it will be filled with documents as soon as delivered.

WP 2.1, selection of technologies

These activities, after the relatively difficult start up of the project, have been focused on the selection of the right technological approach to the problem of the measurements of the customers and the problem of the texture mapping of the fabrics on the images of the models.

About the customer sizes, the partners organised some specific meetings (Bordeaux, Milano, Mestre) that focused on the problem of the body measurements needed for the customisation of the garment without a reference model worn by the customer.

The choice of these measurements has been discussed with the industrial partner (Hitman) in deep details since they represent a strong innovation with respect to the current approach of the company.

The results are documented in the attached reports (see annexes E, F)  and will be definitively collected in a document that is under preparation by Hitman and CAD Modelling.

The estimated delay in establishing the architecture of the measurements assistant is about three months (see annex B).

About the accuracy of the measurements, COIN has developed a sw module that assists the retailer in taking the sizes of the customer through sketches and explanations.

Three different texture mapping products were examined and the final test has been realised in the meeting of Mestre (see annex B, D) and finally the product (DGS) to be used has been chosen by the responsible of the task (COIN).

WP 2.2, adapting available technologies

The activities of this WP focused on the order exchange format, the colour management system and the 3D scanning machine.

About the order exchange, after a meeting with an expert of EDI/EDIFACT, the partners decided to adopt the logical structure of an EDI message in an XML format, without establishing a new EDIFACT document (also because appeared that the measurements set is not common to the different suppliers) but using the available parts of the segment order (see annex B).

Furthermore, COIN and HITMAN defined the details of the agreements at the basis of the trial sales in the COIN shops.

About the colour management system that assures the faithful appearance of the fabrics, ENEA established a contract with CNR-ITIM in order to study a standard procedure for the acquisition and management of the images of the fabrics: some first test images are being evaluated by the pilot users.

A final document about this WP is expected by September, with a delay of three months with respect of the workplan.

WP 2.3 customer and market requirements

The collection of the user requirements has been realised by the pilot users with  the contribution of the other partners according to the workplan, and has already produced documents describing part of the user requirements (annexes A, B, G, H). The coordinator participated to the activities in order to harmonise the different requirements.

The final document about user requirements will be released by the end of the August 99, with a delay of about 4 months.

WP 2.4, System architecture and design

The delay of the WP 2.3 has an effect on these activities, but while the user requirement collection is not ended, the overall architecture of the system has been outlined (annex B) and some solutions has been chosen (for example about safe transactions, annexes B, I).

About the shop channel the activities started from the results of the interviews realised in the definition phase and involved the responsible of the COIN shops and the marketing department.

About the internet channel 25 interviews were accomplished to customers and experts.

Furthermore, the activities about the supplier side of the system have been accomplished regarding the architecture of the CAD-CAM subsystem that will receive the absolute sizes of the customer to alterate the model’s cutting plan (nexting) and a prototype of the system has been demonstrated in the meeting of Mestre (Annex B) and will be installed in the Hitman facilities in Milano to perform a test in field.

About this it is important to point out that Hitman has performed its activities with a low share of internal personnel due to the fact that the company is part of the Gruppo Cerruti and that the personnel not directly involved in the productive process is under other firms of the same group that cooperate with the productive unit of the company.

 

 


Short report of the activities of the partners

ENEA

ENEA realised the coordination activities according to the workplan. Specifically has deployed the communication tools (mailing list, WEB site with document repository) and has partecipated to all the relevant meeting between partner of the project (general and specific) with the aim to harmonise the activities.

Specific technical task has been related to the order exchange formats (EDI-XML), colour management system and evaluation of the texture mapping products, overall architecture.

 

Alferano GmbH

Target: definition of user requirements for the several "channels" of the innovative sales system and therewith provide a basis for the coming implementation work.

 

Project coordination work: Preparation and participation at the Lisbon meeting: workpackage presentation, division of work and necessary steps to work out WP 2.3.

Preparation and participation at the Mestre meeting: presentation of work status, discussion of additional needs

 

WP 2.3: Definition of user requirements for the Internet channel

Expert rounds on Internet requirements (five) and customer interviews (twenty) on Internet use, trends and requirements concerning garment, analysis of existing best practices in the Internet field (Amazon, GAP, Hennes & Mauritz ...).

Sum up requirements and preparation of draft paper

Definition of user requirements for the sales representative channel: analysis of sales representative needs, preparation of sale process, draft paper on training needs.

Delivery WP 2.3: paper on user requirements (to be released).

 

Cad Modelling

On the basis of its own skills and the experience acquired in automatic measurement of Anthropometric Conformations, has already completed analysis - and has begun the process of hardware and software implementation, identifying the tools of development - of the operations and sequence of stages necessary for determination and congruity check of all of the data necessary and sufficient to identify the real anatomy measured and to create a made-to-measure garment as correctly as possible from the viewpoint of wearability.

 

Stages of project and deviations from the budget. This period concerns the activities contained in Workpackages WP2.1, WP2.2 and WP2.4, for which there has been a mean delay of approximately one month of activity as compared to the scheduled dates.

The total number of hours was 956, in respect to a budget of 1,240, resulting from a delay in carrying out the whole project, as well as from diverting internal activities to external resources, shown to be feasible due to the high degree of specialization acquired by the latter during the preliminary stages of study of the 3D anthropometric system.

 

Human resources utilized.

S. ANGOTTI, as manager and coordinator of all technical activities, both internal and external to the structure;

E. DUHAMEL, in the capacity of Senior Industrial Technical Pattern-maker and expert in Anthropometry Applied to Pattern-making ;

M. TOSATTO, in the capacity of translator and coordinator of the flow of technical and information system documentation among the internal operational structures and the external work teams (house software, R&D, University, etc.).

 

Executive activity and results. The activity of CAD MODELLING ®  srl included analysis and realization of an algorithm that could synthesize specific skills of very different nature:

one of the modelling/designing type ;

one aptitude and vocation of the “commercial” type, marketing-oriented;

one hardware and software design specialist.

 

The activities consisted of:

identifying the operations necessary and sufficient to define the parameters for correct design and production of a made-to-measure garment, both manually and automatically (WP2.1 and WP2.2);

analyzing the design techniques for creating an item of wearing apparel and the demands of the market/customer in order to decide on what simplifications should be made in the automated stage of “taking measurements” (WP2.1, WP2.2 and WP2.4).

 

Study of Anthropometric Conformations and a knowledge of pattern-making techniques have led to the implementation of particular software algorithms, utilized to associate, both manually and automatically, certain absolute measurements of the human body to patterns which on the basis of their “qualitative” characteristics furnish really useful information for producing a made-to-measure garment “at a distance”, without having to go through the intermediate and unfeasible stages of trial and inspection  (WP2.2).

The processes selected have been transferred, only partially at the moment, to the 3D measurement system, ScanFit®, so as to obtain automatically the greatest amount of information on the customer’s real anatomy (WP2.2).

 

Lastly, a series of verifications of anthropometric type and of “geometric” type have been identified, able to provide indications on the “formal correctness” of the process of taking measurements (WP2.2).

 

COIN

Documents that COIN have produced :

 

-WP 2.3 Customer and Market Requirements:

·         2.3.1 Document about Customer Data Base:

Motivations and needs, description of individual paragraphs,

schema, characteristic of  each field regarding:

·        Personal data

·        Synthesis of previous orders

·        Details of actual orders

·        Measures for different products

·        Personalization

·        Adaptations

 

·         2.3.2 Description of Catalogue Navigation and DB involved:

description of individual steps of the Navigation and Selection process according to Customer’s needs

·        Garment selection

·        Material selection

·        Launch of Rendering operations

·        Preparation at the Retailer site

 

·         2.3.4 Requirements of the Shop Channel:

·        Additional for Advertising

·        Training Accessories

·        Measurement Area

·        Hardware Devices

·        Software Modules

·        Connection Features

 

·         2.3.5 Overall Definition of Policies for Safe Transaction:

a short document regarding:

·        Start-up phase

·        Fabric Stock Availability and Reservation

·        Orders Confirmation

DB and Tables summary involved in the process

Connection Protocol and Safe Transaction

 

·         2.3.7 Requirements of Order System at the Retailer Side

Different e-mails and documents between Partners  about:

·        Operations at the shop

·        Needs for order processing

·        Information about the Order

 

Plan of activity regarding Retailer and Supplier

 

-EDI and XML thema (activity that carry on for next period)

Investigation and in deep studies about standard EDI and XML language

Inspection about alternatives and constrains.

Propositions and discussion.

 

The “measures segment”: a new segment for EDI/EDIFACT

We have promote one Meeting between Partners and Experts about Orders and Measures to be treated according to EDI standard.

 

A second meeting  between Gruppo Coin and CSI (a software company  working for a long time in EDI and XML was very useful to understand differences, opportunities and opening using XML in respect of EDI standard.

Then we decided to respect EDI standard for segment “orders” and to use a free field for measures data defining and mapping every possibility of measures; this in respect of all measures that Hitman, Lectra and Cadmodelling have defined. We think to plan the develop of such interface  during October.

 

-Measures

                Different meeting  with the Supplier

Study of the manual measurement process: how to measure, what must to be measured and different possibilities of input as measure.

 

We have designed, defined and developed (third Party) a module that is a track and a guide for the employee during the measurement activity in shop: software development, images scanning and graphical adaptation, comments and explanations about  measurement steps.

Structure definition for measurements  data: the input for control module.

 

-Image Acquisition

We examine  different type of scanners: quality and price.

Trials of fabrics acquisition

Test of garment’s images  acquisition

Definition of standard in quality and precision for images to be used

 

- Rendering

·         Study and comparative analysis of different Rendering Software

·         Definition and design of general rules for a rendering tool that must be used in intranet mode.

·         Trials and valuations.

 

 

COIN  has examined two (a further product, WinTexture, was examined during the definition phase of the project) rendering products:

-          Prostyle made from Lectra

 and

-          Portrait from DGS.

 

Regarding the analyzed functionality, the two products  are quite similar: perhaps Prostyle performs some more detailed functions.

All products are normally used for stand-alone applications.

We asked  the two Company to adapt their products for intranet use that is a client ask for a rendering activity receiving, as input, two simple data: the code of the model to be rendered and the code of the material to be used for this operation; the output have to be a html image of the result.

The two Company  declared to be interested but the amount of Lectra’s costs appear as more expensive than DGS. The appeal, the determination, the clarity of steps to be made for the goal, the time to delivery  was better for DGS.

Than we choose Portrait from DGS.

Also the important aspect of  “property rights” in term of Ishtar’s project, was accepted by DGS without  problems.

 

 

-We was present and active during  formal and operative meeting.

 

-We have organized the second Ishtar  Meeting in Venice.

 

HITMAN

 

Activity of Hitman:                                 

 

Individuation of the overal policies for safe transaction.                                                           

               

Collection of the requirements for anthropometric database.

 

 Requirment internal system and order management: the internal organization is now  in argument, the architecture  is ready, but the connection between the  FITNET 2 data and the internal database  of the system is not yet ready, we thinks that after the test of FITNET 2 at the beginning of September, the data for the connection will be clarified

 

Analysis of the process of model alteration from the customer measurements: Hitman has worked about this with Cad Modelling and Lectra and summarised the results in a document and in two tables for this , ‘TROVATAGLIE” and “VERIFICADROP” .

Lectra

During this period, Lectra Systèmes has focused their work on this subject : take into account the “ absolute measurements ” of the customer for Made to Measure.

The first version of a Lectra software (FitNet v1) allows to adapt a garment to the customer’s body, but the information provided to the software are not “ absolute body measurements ”  but  “ relative garment measurements ”.

Several analyses have been carried out during the past 6 months. Lectra’s experience and know-how in apparel enabled us to appreciate Hitman’s requirements in this project.

The main stages of the past 6 months.

 

- Study of existing measurements, anthropometric charts and garments.

- Feasibility study  (technicals and apparel)

- Job-oriented study (apparel) together with Hitman and CadModelling, adapted to Hitman’s work methods.

- Creation of a software (BodyFit) allowing to enter anthropometric and garment charts, depending on the population to dress and the garment types to be manufactured (jacket, trousers, vest, ...). This software can export these data (measurements), so that they can be operated by the other partners and by the second version of FitNet.

- BodyFit is still a prototype today. It has been demonstrated during the last meeting in Venice in June.

- Creation of the second version of FitNet capable of interpreting body measurements and deduce the modifications to be made on the garment. This new version uses the charts issued from BodyFit.

- FitNet v2 is a prototype today. It has been demonstrated during the last meeting in Venice in June.

 

Studies are still in progress. They will take shape as soon as Hitman will use these two new software. The staff training scheduled for July has been postponed after the summer.

 

Neosis

Neosis contributed to the user requirements analysis with a specific perspective about the architecture of the system.

Thank to its experience with e-commerce systems, Neosis has studied and suggested the solutions that better meet the user needs about safe transactions and has resumed them in a document.

Further Neosis participated to the activities dealing with the architecture of the system, for example the meeting in Bordeaux about the texture mapping product needed to show the fabrics on a photo of the model of garment.

 

 

 


 

Annexes

A) MG011-003-report on the startup meeting 

(http://server1.pisa.enea.it/ishtar/files/mg011-003-report%20on%20the%20startup%20meeting.zip)

B) MG011-005-report about the second general meeting in mestre 17-18 june 1999

(..mg011-005-report about the second general meeting in mestre 17-18 june 1999.zip)

C) OF011-001-quality assurance plan

                (http://server1.pisa.enea.it/ishtar/files/of011-001-qualityassuranceplanenea.zip)

D) AD021-001-report about the meeting in bordeaux about prostyle.doc

(http://server1.pisa.enea.it/ishtar/files/ad021-001-report about the meeting in bordeaux about prostyle.doc)

E) AD021-002-meeting hitman 26 may 99.doc

(http://server1.pisa.enea.it/ishtar/files/ad021-002-meeting%20hitman%2026%20may%2099.do c )

F) AD021-003-hitman mestre - measurements.zip

(http://server1.pisa.enea.it/ishtar/files/ad021-003-hitman mestre - measurements.zip)

G) AD023-002-Ish-Requir.of Shop Channel of the System (coin).doc

                (..ad023-002-Ish-Requir.of Shop Channel of the System (coin).doc)

H) AD023-003-Ish-WP 2.3 Customer and Mrk Req (coin).doc

                (..ad023-003-Ish-WP 2.3 Customer and Mrk Req (coin).doc)

I) AD024-001-Safe Transactions (Neosis).doc

                (..ad024-001-Safe Transactions (Neosis).doc)

L) AD031-001-Prop_rights update (neosis).zip

                (..ad031-001-Prop_rights update (neosis).zip)

 

H) Draft document 'ish-wp231se of techn for texturmap.doc'

I) Draft document 'short schema about user requirements'